When we first arrived at the lodge, we found our accommodations far exceeding our expectations: flush toilets, drinkable water, sporadic electricity, wireless internet, hot showers, 3 gourmet meals a day, and new sheets and towels every other day... the amenities were indicative of the less than truly authentic experience that we would have. We settled into our rooms, then met in the newly constructed dining area that overlooks the Napo river. This is where we met Juan, our guide for the duration of our stay, who we would come to appreciate, respect, and marvel at as we got to know his history, personal experiences, and world view.
Juan hails from the Shiwiar indigenous ethnic group, which owns approximately 180,000 acres of land about 3-5 days of river canoe travel from the border of Peru. His people, which are hunter-gatherers, have been in the same spot for about the last 20-30 years, with numbers hovering around 970 community members. Recounting the many stories of Juan's life in the accuracy, length, and detail they deserve would result in quite an engaging book-length writing project, but here is a short rundown to give you an idea about the kind of man we're dealing with here:
- At only 2 weeks old, survived an attack by a shaman which required his parents to travel 4 days through the jungle to seek help from the most powerful healing shaman that could be found. Through traditional practices, the healing shaman was able to identify the illness, bite the center of Juan's chest, and remove a large beetle that had been living inside him and making him sick. Testament to this story is evident in the very large scar in the center of his chest and the respect and appreciation that Juan carries for the powers of a trained Shaman to do both bad and good.
- As a young boy, Juan survived Malaria twice, once being remedied by traditional medicines, and another time with Western medical practices that required Juan to walk 3 days through the jungle to the nearest military base in order to receive treatment.
- Survived "jungle rot" or "jungle leprosy" with the help of Western medicine; it had been eating the flesh of his face, and required a sequence of shots for 30 days, twice a day.
- Has 5 brothers and 2 sisters. Four siblings did not survive.
- Could live on his own in the jungle from the age of 12 for 3-5 days with nothing more than a blowgun... need I say more? This, it is important to note, is also Juan's favorite hobby or activity; hunting in the jungle, living off the land, and being one with nature.
- Trained to become a shaman for two years with hopes of exacting revenge for the attack when he was only 2 weeks old. After much debate and talking with his sibling, parents, and grandparents, this goal of revenge was abandoned, but Juan would still like to complete his shaman training. In a story that will be recounted at a later time, Juan's shaman training would come to save him from further attacks from a jealous shaman living near the Yachana lodge. To make a long story short, Juan let this person know if attacks continued, he would not be long for the world and would end up as a shrunken head.
- Actually opted to bite the head off a piranha instead of using a machete. This proved to be a drastic miscalculation, with the piranha getting the best of Juan´s face... much to his dismay, with a scar to prove it.
The general schedule for an average day at the lodge consisted of breakfast at 7:00, a morning walk with Juan as a guide, a leisurely lunch followed by a 1 - 2 1/2 hour siesta (which helped to beat the heat), another walk to a site where we would participate in a craft, or watch a demonstration, followed by some time to relax before dinner which was promptly served at 7:00 in the evening. For the first few nights we were the only folks at the lodge which afforded us a lot of attention from both the staff and Douglas McMeekin, the former outright owner and now executive director of the Yachana Lodge and Technical School. Douglas, born in Lexington, Kentucky, struggled through school and university, made a mint in real estate in the '80s before promptly going bankrupt, and somehow ended up in Ecuador. Douglas's only sibling, a brother, also happens to live in South America, in Chile I believe, and is retired from the World Bank.
Our interactions with Douglas forced many in the group to take a step back and critically think about what was truly occurring economically, socially, and ecologically near the small community of Mondana on the Napo River. Douglas, an unabashedly self-professed business man, claims to have combined ecotourism, education, rain forest preservation, self-sustainability, and community development into a model that turns a profit for the promotion and continued existence of the lodge and school, with the added benefit of preserving and rehabilitating former cattle pastures, poorly managed farms, secondary forests, and primary forest. To date, 4300 acres of "rain forest" have been preserved and protected, usually through the purchase of tracts of land no bigger than 125 acres at a time, bought from individuals who received the land through grants offered by the government to help settle and cultivate the land in distances extending from 6 kilometers on each side of the river. Each kilometer is known as "a line." Because of this snatching of land by "colonios" which includes mestizos and Kichwa populatoins alike, the Guarani indigenous group has been pushed away from the river and deep into the forest.
Originally, the land was offered by the government because it was believed that it would be valuable for farming and cattle grazing, but as many people slowly came to realize, the delicate eco-balance and relationships that allow the amazing flora and fauna to flourish is ruined when Western concepts and ideas of farming and agriculture are introduced to the region. According to Juan, only the top 8cm or so of soil in the rain forest is able to support plant growth. The soil beneath this rich layer of constant decomposition is quite acidic and poor for farming and is easily lost once exposed to the constant erosion brought forth by heavy rains. Evidence of this delicate balance was obvious walking through the forests, where many tree roots are exposed and very near the surface of the ground. Many trees and plants made up for the lack of vertical root penetration by extending great distances just below the surface horizontally. The powerful affects of erosion were also immediately evident. As it continued to rain upstream the river rose overnight as much as 6 feet, taking plants and plucking entire trees from the side of the river bank as the soil that held them in place was quickly removed. This amazing process was accompanied by resounding crashes and booms that rivaled thunder as entire trees crashed into the river. Another visitor, a geographer from Eastern Illinois University, remarked that it was similar to watching chunks of icebergs crashing into the ocean.
Upon reflecting on our experience at the lodge, the majority of the group came to the conclusion that this was not an authentic Amazonian experience as the lodge and the surrounding area had already been too far impacted by the presence of humans. In essence, the land was ¨sterile.¨None of the megafauna that we badly wanted to see was present. Granted, 15 gringos tromping through the forest is enough to scare any animal with a sense of preservation to the hills, but regardless, it was obvious that this area lacked the biodiversity that existed in deeper areas of the Amazon. This conclusion was confirmed by our group leader, Diane, who has had much richer experiences within Ecuador at other lodges and outposts. Upon furhter reflection, debate, and much discussion, the issue was raised as to Douglas´s motivation behind the preservation of this specific portion of forest. Was this the best use of the foundation´s funds? Are there not areas with a more pressing need for preservation that is truly considered untouched primary forest? Is this just where he ended up? What criteria was used to select this land for preservation and were indigenous experts and locals consulted?
Despite the work of the foundation, two roads have been built on both sides of the river, and electricity is expected to be present within the next 6 to 12 months. The presence of convenient, cheap electrical power will permamently alter the landscape surrounding the Yachana Lodge, the Yachana Preserve, and the community of Mondaña. Light and noise pollution, not to mention the increased presence of settlers will further expedite the changes brought forth by modernization. The ability of the environment to keep up with the change was overcome by the pressing needs and demands of the increasing populations and settlements.
coming soon... notes on the school.
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